By Ela Hawes
Contributing Fashion WriterThis week’s Paris couture shows express a fine elegance and day one opens its gates to the realms of Dior's embroidered red silk and black degrade, white silk, tulle jackets with a meld of wool and " tromp l'oeil " dresses. Feather whites, black and red all resembling the art of Russia and the illustration influences from Rene Gruau, the hispanic designer once more managed to put himself forward with the explosive ideas of culture and linguistics of design. Brush strokes and iridescent embroideries distilling the virtuoso chiaroscuro effect of chalk shading, the contemporary approach of John Galliano causes the impact of the first day. The eclectic hair and make-up, pastel-colored soft eye shadow and bright red lipstick unify with the Stephen Jones hat designs.
The investments in the future of fate, the surpassing realms of a visionary and the dignified futuristic street style, Armani mused with the idea of amalgamating leather, chiffon and silk with a color palette of parliament blue, neon red, neon green, feather white with a liquid mercury mirror effect. An African feel in the abstract cuts, the geometric forms and the innovative touch of architectural designs radiate to a higher state of craft and beauty. The gem stone influences on organza, the metal threaded silk and hard molded sci-fi looks have been styled with cartwheel hats and fencing mask studded with crystals. Perhaps an architect would ponder on the luxurious ideas on the future of power dressing with Armani Prive.
The royal romance of Chanel, and the paradise of the front row celebrities such as Kirsten Dunst, Janelle Monae, Vanessa Paradis, Karen Elson, Gaspard Ulliel and Diane Kruger. The obsolete approach of Lagerfeld can be seen through the commune usage of his rough-edged tweeds, will weaved, layered chiffon dresses, see through unitards and frilled petite coats. The mirror perception of a feminine look is accompanied with influences of the futuristic patterns from Shanghai, the color palette varies from a mix of floral patterns to pink and grays with much influence from the artist Marie Laurencin. The styling sparks through as Stella Tennat and Freja walk down the runway with Lagerfeld's creations.
Givenchy is renowned for dressing the likes of Grace Kelly in the history of fashion. This time Ricardo Tiscy has gone wild with his dreams of hailing her with the Japanese toys and robots and influences from the dancer Kazuo Ohno. The not explicit cuts with bird wings stitched onto the hem of the organza, the layers of chiffon compels the work of art with the giant warrior hats. As the looks were presented on hangers at the place Vendome, the feathered tulles burst with Tisci's craftwork of neon colored bodice and crusted Swarovski crystals.
A promising name for the world of fashion, the 31-year-old designer whose work has been seized by Dior, known for his elaborate work both in women’s wear and menswear, Alexis Mabille originated the theme from its actual location of runway, Musee Bourdelle's Antoine Bourdelle. The clientele list varied from Carla Bruni, Keira Knightley, Dita Von Teese and Rihanna. Mabille has created the elegance of the classic cuts with overskirts, which transforms to capes, duchess satin, lace, floral patterns, hand-painted colors and asymmetric one-shouldered gowns. A detailed styling with dangle earrings and clear make-up adds to its high quality presentation.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Ela Hawes is a freelance fashion journalist and an artist based in London. She has been working for broadcast TV channels and newspapers since the age of 17 as a journalist and a fixer. After working on the fashion desk of an international economy newspaper for a while, she branched out to the fashion and art industry.
Ela admires the thin line of well-tailored, creative outbursts of design and fabric. What inspires her most is the unity of intelligence and style blending itself to our everyday wardrobe. She especially loves diamonds.
PHOTOS OF PARIS by Joanna Tanger.
